In Petropavlovsk- July 11-23
(written July 22)
What can I say? These people sure know how to put on a feast! We have F-E-A-S-T-E-D. Man, have we ever! Friday we feasted at Philip’s host family’s home. I sort of feel sorry for Natalya (Philip’s mother) and Marina (his sister) for they went to such trouble to put on a big spread. Stephen was still recuperating from his sickness on the train and I was feeling queasy, and we hadn’t had much sleep, so we couldn’t each much. But she sure laid out the feast for a 2 PM meal!
Starting with summer soup, we moved to all the other goodies (mashed potatoes, cheese, sardines and a pork dish). We ate and ate and toasted and toasted. This was our first experience with vodka (at least it was my first experience- but it would not be my last). Ann Marie got to do our toast (which was a little longer than mine in Balkhash) but Saule’s toast was 12 minutes long (Philip timed it). He even had time to take a phone call in the middle of her toast and help her with some of the details. It was fun. Let’s try it at Thanksgiving! Or how about Christmas?
Ann Marie, Stephen and I went back to the apartment and Philip joined up with his friends getting a much needed break from us. About 8:30, when we were about to turn in for the night Philip knocked on the door with four of his friends who came with preparations for dinner. We ate and visited well into the night. We were exhausted but very pleased to meet Mike Mesquita (from Arizona) and Kate Monroe (from Iowa). Again, I can’t say enough about these volunteers. Philip does have some wonderful, fantastic friends. I have certainly been awed by their dedication and commitment.
Saturday (July 12th) was the 256th Birthday of Petropavlovsk. Natalya helped us celebrate by taking us to the Old Russian Orthodox church where 750 people stood, crowded in the hot sanctuary from 8:30 until 11 while the elaborately vested orthodox priests read about St. Peter and St. Paul’s lives, the choir sang and another priest chanted prayers. Don’t worry about us standing the whole time. We got there at 10:30.
At 11 the bells of the old church began ringing and the procession began. I’ve got a wonderful video if I can find out how to get it on internet. There was such power and awe as the crowd moved forward to be blessed by the priest or to be sprinkled by the holy water. The procession moved up the hill and headed to the new church but we cut out of the procession half-way since it was so hot and we were only 2 blocks from our home.
But back to the feasts; there were plenty more feast. Saule, Philip’s counterpart, pulled out all the stops for our Tuesday feast. We were all introduced to horse- not “Hi, how are you?” kind of introduction, but “Here let me serve you a piece.” Stephen was so impressed with his mother eating horse that he decided he could try tomatoes. (I don’t think either one of them will repeat that culinary treat soon.)
We met Saule’s mother, sisters, brother-in-law, son, and nephew. We had already met her husband and colleague. Natalya joined us as well, so there were 14 of us (maybe even 15). We ate and toasted, ate and toasted, and ate and toasted, you get the idea? We ate and toasted A LOT! Intermission allowed us to stretch our legs but while we were out the women cleared the table and came out with two cakes, cookies, candies and tea. ¡Mama mía! We stumbled home at 2 AM.
Wednesday we slept to 11 AM then went to Gulmira’s house (a native Kazakh who is studying at Arizona State) where her mother laid out another feast for our lunch. Ouch!
We took a break from eating to go out to a camp where Stephen and I helped a PCV teach 60 kids how to throw a Frisbee and 20 boys learned the game of Ultimate Frisbee while Ann Marie and Philip sang songs with 20 other campers. At the end of our time THEY FED US PLOV! I was so tired of eating- (at least we didn’t have any vodka at camp) but there is more!
Thursday we went to Yavlenka, a village (8,000 people live there) and there Tim Suschland (PCV from Nevada) had his host-family threw us a feast complete with ‘beshbarmak’ (horse in a pasta, translated to “five fingers” in Kazakh). This time we had cognac. Our intermission this time was a musical interlude by the director of the Civic Center who played the dombra and sang two beautiful songs. (I have a video and my belt has gotten tighter.)
Part of the cultural experiences that Philip was so looking forward to sharing with us was the Banya, similar to a Turkish Bath. I’d call it a sauna with a sting. While Ann Marie remained at our host’s home, the men went to the sauna. We sat in horrible heat (it reminded me of our train ride), rinsed off with cool water, went back into the hell-hole and beat each other with birch branches then rinsed off and felt “refreshed.” I don’t know if you can tell or not, but the banya was not one of my favorite endeavors. Philip liked it and said it was quite a treat in the middle of winter. I’ll just have to take his word for it.
Back to the food! Friday we had a barbeque on the river (the Ishim River that flows north into Russia) with 13 of Philip’s English Club students. We rode the city bus to the end of the line then walked for 1 ½ miles through the field to find our beach. Stephen carried six bricks with him so we could have a fireplace. Ann Marie stayed home to rest which was smart- but the view was fantastic. I hope the pictures do justice to the vista. There were rolling wheat fields as far as the eye could see- what a scene.
The kids played soccer, volleyball, threw the Frisbee and swam while I chilled in the shade. But we did eat! We brought all the preparations to make shashlik by the river, a traditional summer activity. This was wonderful but I’m tired of eating.
Sunday afternoon we went out to Natalya’s parents’ home (a small old traditional Russian farm) and had the best chicken I have EVER had (no offense to you, Mom) but we ate and ate and ate once again! We ate right from their garden and had a delightful time under the shade of a large tree.
So you see, we have eaten a lot over and over, again and again. Philip is a wonderful tour guide but I fear we are exhausting him, just plain wearing him out. We leave Petro on Thursday, and arrive in Murray on next Tuesday. So we still have adventures before us but this will be the last opportunity I have to email you.
Know that I love you and that we are having a great experience. We’ll make contact when we are back in the states. I can’t wait to tell you more and show you the pictures and videos.
Fsivo haroshiva! (All the best!)
David
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2 comments:
Philip,
Thank you, again, for letting me read along the past year. Seeing Kazakhstan and Petropol through your families eyes brings back so many memories -- three years ago today we meet our daughter for the first time, and reading your parents' experience is making me crave plov and shashlik!
I wanted to send you an email, but I can't seem to find your address. Email me at uterinewars AT hotmail.com when you get a chance, so I can forward you a picture of our daughter. She looks a lot like your host mother, and it's neat to me to think of the kind of life her family leads there.
Thanks again
Jennifer in M-town
P.S. I've never actually met your parents, either, although we have mutual friends. I need to do so and compare bus-outhouse-bathroom experiences with them!
This may be a strange way to get the information, but Jennifer from Murray, if you are out there and read this could you give us a call? Work number is 270 753-6460 and home is 270-753-3908. We would like to compare experiences.
David
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