the great train ride

Written Monday, July 21, 2008

We left Balkhash, the industrial town full of natural resources of gold, silver, iron, zinc, copper and more. We caught the night train to Astana. That sounds innocent enough but there was an adventure in it for us for sure.

On Wednesday, July 9th, our train was to leave at 6:10 PM so we hired a cab which got us to a lonely, barren train station about 5:15 but shortly all sorts of people, all ages, all shapes, a variety of dress (some dressed to the “nines” and others very causal- the girls sure wear tight clothes), but we sort of stuck out with our 7 bags and one guitar. Philip said my shorts, fanny pack and white socks helped too. We bought water for the trip for we already had meat, cheese bread and romaine noodles.

The train arrived a little late and we made our way to boxcar number 11 where we found our berth. What a surprise! Philip had described it to us well before we got on but I guess I didn’t understand. We found our way (carrying all our bags) down a narrow, (2 feet wide) passageway all the way to the back of the car right next to the bathroom (well the toilet - there wasn’t room for a bath) and smoking compartment.

Four bunks were now our home. Each bed had linens, a towel and pillow and were just 2 feet wide and 5 ½ long (wider and longer would have fit better!) There was a little table in the midst of our cubical where Philip taught us the Kazakh national card game, “Durak” (which means Loser). We’ll have to teach you.

The train was packed and at the end of our beds were two more bunks perpendicular to ours where two Russian men rested. Our new bunkmates invited their friends to join our private space and I felt very, very vulnerable (and I’m not even an introvert!). We did make it through the night without any real trouble- but it wasn’t a very restful, relaxing ride.

All night long people were coming by our beds to refresh themselves or have a smoke. Each time they went through the door it banged and jostled us. The sun went down about 11:15 and the cabin lights went out and we slept restlessly until 5 AM when we transferred to an electric train in Karaganda and headed for Astana. We grabbed a quick breakfast at the station and had an American just come up and say “Hello!” It startled us and I asked him how he knew we weren’t from Kazakhstan. He said “You stick out pretty well.” I guess he saw my socks. He is a Methodist minister from Georgia who has been here with his family of 5 for the past 3 years.

Our new train took us right into the capital city of Astana. Oh, if you are riding trains in Kazakhstan, be sure to carry your own toilet paper. They do NOT provide this essential supply. I learned from first hand experience.

Do take a look at any pictures you can see of Astana for it is quite a modern city. The president moved the capital from Almaty to Astana 10 years ago. It currently has 500,000 people with buildings going up everywhere to greet the 1 ½ million they are hoping to have by 2030. Our tour book says, “Astana lends the opportunity to see just how one country spends the profits made from the sale of 400,000 barrels of oil per day.” Michael would be amazed at the architecture. I hope we can get our pictures on the internet soon.

We toured the city doing the “tourist things” like going up the Baiterek (Big Gold Ball) and put our hand in the hand impression of Nursultan Nazerbayev (the President). We got a quick lesson from the locals that “lines are just a suggestion.” We were standing at the end of the line when I began being pushed out of the way of four little girls. I probably outweighed all of them collectively but they had leverage on me and their grandmother’s shove helped solidify their position in front of me. That’s okay. They got me this time- but I’ll get them next time!

At 4 PM we were back at the train station and we bought our dinner of cheese, sausage, cucumbers, and bread (does that sound familiar?) and put it in our bags. I knew we were in trouble when as soon as our train pulled into the station at 5:15 PM a dozen or more shirtless, worn-looking, tattooed, sweaty men piled off the train. I swear the boxcar was at least 120 degrees and we were going to be on this train for 9 hours! Five of those hours would be during sunlight.

The windows opened at the top allowing the top down-wind berth to get air but the rest of us suffered. I don’t want to go to hell, but if I do I think I could last maybe 10 hours ‘cause I’ve already endured 9. The only relief I could find from the up-wind berth was to stick my towel out the window and direct air to my head. I prayed throughout the night, “Please Lord have the sun go down and let me feel the refreshing wind.” In the middle of the night the train stopped and Philip and I got off to get some air and buy more water.

Ann Marie ate and drank very little to keep her from throwing up- but Stephen threw up four times. If you ever want to be miserable just jump on a packed, hot, dirty train and throw up four times in a foreign country.

But in the end we survived! We watched the beginning signs of dawn at 2:15 AM and we pulled into Petropavlovsk at 2:45 and were greeted enthusiastically by Philip’s host mother, host sister, counter-part and her husband. They were smiling and hugging and ever so much a gift from God! They had food for us and then swept us away to our apartment and let us sleep until noon. Thank you Lord!

We made it! We left Murray Wednesday, July 2nd at noon and arrived in Petropavlovsk on Friday, July 11th at the crack of dawn. What a week! What a trip! What an adventure! Next up is touring Philip’s new home town and meeting his friends and colleagues. But I’ll write more later.

Love to all from the other side of the world!

David