traveling alone with my friends (part one)

I was supposed to be in China right now. Tim, Alex and I had planned a large circular route including Western China and Kyrgyzstan beginning and ending in Almaty. But the Chinese consulate fearing swine flu has bumped its visa application fee up from 180 to nearly 400 dollars. Our meager travel budgets obviously couldn’t accommodate an expense like that, so we changed plans. Tim and Alex bought plane tickets to the Ukraine while I, feeling the economic pinch of my spring Thailand trip, opted for a cheaper vacation. I was still hoping for a trip somewhere during that time, so I bought a ticket to Almaty. I’ve spent the last three days relaxing and hiking among the natural attractions near the city. Tim and Alex will meet me here before we go on with our planned trip to Kyrgyzstan.

I was a bit nervous and excited to go on a week’s vacation by myself. I knew that it would be a good chance for self reflection and introspection, but I also thought it might get lonely. After five days of the first solo trip of my life, I haven’t felt lonely yet. In fact, I’ve felt like I haven’t had enough time actually by myself.

A few encounters with friends, both new and newer:

Asamal and Dana
I boarded the train at 10pm on Monday night, prepared for a long and boring bus ride. I had my iPod fully charged, journal, crossword puzzles and anthology of short fiction close at hand, and enough berry flavored tea to have a tea break every hour and a half during the 30 hour ride. However, shortly after claiming my seat I realized that I wasn’t going to have a silent ride. Two young ladies, about my age, sisters, got on and were chattering like they hadn’t seen each other in ages. It took about ten minutes before they turned their attention my way and asked where I was from. The now-familiar conversation took place in which I explain what I do and why I’m here, and yes, I’ve tried your national dish, beshbarmak. The next 29.5 hours were filled with spells of silence interrupted by a random question: How much does bread cost in the US? Have you ever seen David Beckham? Want some fish? They were friendly and generous (especially with the fish), offering me a ride once we arrived in the city. Smiling, I turned them down and walked to the PC office, a two hour early morning hike I had been looking forward to since the day before.

Carol
I spent the first day in the office and running around town trying to plan my week in Almaty. In the office I asked Carol, our Administrative Officer, if I could stay a couple nights at her apartment until I found another place. She happily agreed and at the end of the day took me to her apartment complex. One of four towers, her building is 28 stories tall. Her apartment, located on the 11th floor, is about the size of my house in the US and better equipped. But the highlight of the place isn’t the washing machine, king size bed, or even the cool magnetic door opener device. She has windows on three sides of the building, one set of which comprise a veranda commanding an astoundingly beautiful panoramic view of the Tian Shan mountain range to the south. She has given me free food, free lodging, free peanut butter, and free rides around town. She has pampered me on par with my own mother, showing me that Kazakhstan can be a comfortable place to live if you have the right job.