One of the first things that people noticed about Kazakhstan when they found out I was coming here, was its proximity to Russia, prompting the question, “Do they drink a lot of vodka there?” The answer is yes, but not in an excessive sense like I had been prepared for. They drink vodka like we drink beer. Well, not exactly. They have “domestic science” beliefs that vodka with pepper is a cure for the cold, and that is bad luck (and just bad form) to leave an opened bottle unfinished. My host families (neither in Uzunagash or in Petropavlovsk) have not been heavy drinkers and haven’t pressured me into drinking, but we have had a few opportunities in my four months in country to celebrate various holidays, birthdays, or just the end of a long week. I have drunk the Kazakhstani vodka and although all my American friends say it is better than American vodka, I still am not a fan. I’m still partial to beer and wine, although I have yet to find good wine in this country.
I think I’ve mentioned the tradition of toasting here, but I think I should explain it a little more thoroughly. The people here, especially the ethnic Kazakhs, have the belief that you don’t ever drink just to drink (or heaven forbid to get drunk), but that you need a reason for every drink you have. That means that there is no real casual drinking. At a dinner party (like the Thanksgiving dinner we had at our house) people don’t sip their wine or vodka; instead they wait until someone proposes a toast and everyone drinks together. Back home someone might toast at the beginning of a night, or periodically throughout the night, but this is every drink, all night long. The toasts, I’ve found, don’t always need to be important, sentimental or even pertinent (Mike’s host dad proposed a toast to International Cross Country Skiers last week because it was Int’l Cross Country Skiing Day in Russia), but something must be said before a drink is consumed. At a more formal gathering (again, Thanksgiving) people are encouraged to give a few words, and I’ve been able to say thank you to my many families all over the world that have housed, fed, and cared for me in my broken but improving Russian. However, at more informal gatherings where there is no need to congratulate the birthday girl or the newly wedded couple, there is a set pattern of the first three toasts/drinks.
As we’ve now entered the educational portion of today’s lesson in Kazakhstani culture and drink etiquette, make sure you have a piece of paper and at least two sharpened No.2 pencils. There will be a quiz in November, 2009.
The first toast is “to health” “За здоровые! - Za Zdroviye!” All together: (zah zdah-RO-vee-yeh)
The second is “to friendship.” “За дружба! - Za Druzhba!” Three, four: (zah DRUZH-bah) (zh is like the s in measure)
The third is “to love.” “За любовь! - Za Lubof.” Ladies in the back, will you please join the class: (zah loo-BOF)
After these three (which in most cases means three shots of vodka) people make their own toasts. Other common ones (especially if Americans are present) are “To international friendship” or “to ethnic tolerance,” but don’t be surprised if later on you hear “To Igor,” “To President Nazerbaev” (sometimes heartfelt, others with some sarcasm), or simply “to vodka.”
So, Ahem… I have a toast. Grab a glass and put something in it. “To my family and friends, old and new, near and far, for all the love, support and good times we’ve shared, and to the American taxpayer for paying for the Peace Corps. Happy holidays!”
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